Friday, January 21, 2011

Dihua Je

Dihua Je, Je meaning street, is a festive place to experience the preparations for Chinese New Year. Feb 3 is Chinese New Year and 2011 is the year of the rabbit. It is a 15 day celebration ending with the Lantern Festival.

We jumped on the 601 bus from school and headed to Dihua with Mr. Arnold and his students who donate their time to the Orphanage Club. Their mission, Friday night, was to purchase traditional foods that would be packaged for 25 families who the Pearl S. Buck International deemed the neediest. The organization helps women who have birthed children from military men who have occupied their country. They also address the issues of poverty and discrimination faced by children in Asian countries.

Food is very important in Chinese culture and auspicious foods are served throughout the 15 days.

Whole chicken = togetherness

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Noodles = long life

Clams = wealth

Lettuce = in Chinese sounds like fortune so lettuce wraps are important

Oranges = luck an wealth, gold = color of nobility.IMG_4575

Fish = wish and abundance

We wandered up and down the streets and were greeted by Father Prosperity, local police, and ??? gorillas.IMG_4567 IMG_4574 IMG_4576

I think I had as many pictures taken of me….the crazy American in a t-shirt and flip flops in Winter. It is between 50-60 degrees here.

We sampled ginger tea which was yummy, squid balls which were not. Nougat candy, jelly bellies, dried fruits and vegetables and many seeds, nuts, and other things we have no idea what they were. The sellers would pop things into your mouth as you said hello.  IMG_4577 IMG_4565 IMG_4578 IMG_4570 IMG_4573

The atmosphere was fun and it felt like a fair to us, loads of people.  loads of fun, and some terrible smells like stinky tofu: tofu marinates for a couple of hours in a brine of vegetables, tofu and dried shrimp that has been fermenting for six months or more.

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Saturday, I went to school to help box up the goodies. Each box contained: tuna, corn, peaches, squid, several types of noodles, candies, sausages, soaps, toothpaste and brushes, toys and school supplies or kids and other things I cannot remember. It was a great project and I was glad I could participate in it.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Cambodia - Kingdom of Wonder

I'm trying to think back on our previous ramblings and figure out if we've ever travelled with as little a plan as we set out with to Cambodia. I mean, people plan their trip to the supermarket, or Costco, sometimes preparing their list in the order they'll come to it in the aisles. Verna? And yet here we were, in another Country, in Phnom Penh, with only a vague idea of that we wanted to get to Siem Reap. Not least of all because it's a name we can pronounce and we heard there's this place there called Angkor What? that was worth a few days of sightseeing. We were also told to check out a place called "Beer, Friends and Dead Fish" and I assumed once we were close enough our noses would lead the way. Nancy mentioned that our tuk tuk from the airport took us to the bus station, but what I think she may have not mentioned was the sign in the tuk tuk that advertised the driver could also take us to the shooting range where we could fire live rounds with automatic weapons of almost all kinds, or if that wasn't enough we could blow up our very own cow with a RPG for a few hundred USD. (it's probably a good deal for them because with a few hundred USD they can probably buy a few cows) After much debate, we decided to save that for later in the trip and continued to the bus station. Well anyway, since we've already related our 7 hour bus adventure, I won't repeat myself except to say that if the bus ride was any less expensive the bus company would have to start paying their passengers for the honor of transporting them. I for one think this would revolutionize the industry and possibly make bus travel popular again! Hmm...was it ever popular?

Ok then, we found Siem Reap. It's actually a very quaint place, almost colonial feeling, especially with all the colonists walking the streets, eating at the restaurants, and drinking in the pubs. I know the place is a big tourist draw but I was still surprised to see as many "people from away" as I did.

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Apparently Cambodia is rivals with McDonald's and have their own version of the two dollar meal deal. They appear to be winning since we didn't spy a MickeyD's the whole trip. We ate at the World Lounge the first night, it’s near Pub Street, it’s always refreshing to see a place that has it’s priorities straight.IMG_3844 IMG_3843

Let see, arranged for Dee to pick us up in his tuk tuk the morning after we arrived and this ended up being a good thing since we could tell the other tuk tuk drivers we were all set for the rest of our stay. I'm thinking there was some sort of unfamiliar game going on here as we would be walking down the street and a tuk driver, lounging on his ride, would ask if we wanted tuk tuk, we would say no and continue walking. The next tuk tuk driver, parked right behind the previous driver, also lounging on his ride and just witnessing us decline the previous driver would ask us with much hope and excitement "tuk tuk?" This was sometimes repeated as many as ten times. Our consistent answer of “Day Ah Coon” (No thank you) following their questions.

So, with much anticipation and bated breath, well, several bated breaths, as it was dusty and about 20 minutes outside of town by tired moped, we headed off toward the temple complexes.

Undeterred by all the nay-sayers who warned us about temple burnout, we eagerly purchased the any three days in a week park pass. This was somehow different than the three days in a row pass for the same amount of money purchased from a separate window. We handed them our money, they smiled, we smiled, they took our picture and put it on the pass. Don't lose the pass or you'll have to buy another and keep them handy as they were checked at almost every temple. Pretty efficient really. For the record, all you nay-sayers have now made your way onto a separate list of what I call "people I should listen to".

Having not arranged a price with our tuk tuk driver for his services, we decided to make him work for his keep and when he asked; "what temple we want to go" we simply said, "you pick." This strategy worked pretty well as we never saw the same temple twice. Our first stop, after driving by the Angkor Wat complex and getting our first giddy glimpses of it, we continued on to the Bayon temple area.IMG_1353 That’s just the gate.

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The towers in the back are the Angkor Wat temple. (Oh yeah, Angkor What? is a bar in town as it turns out) But more on this later. IMG_1358

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This is one of the 5 gates of the walled city of Angkor Thom (Angkor means city and Thom in Khmer means large).  4 of the 5 gates are accessible while the 5th, the Gate of the Dead, reserved to kill the slaves.

Each entry has 54 devas on one side and 54 asuras on the other apparently inspired by the story of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. The gods and demons worked together alternatively pulling the giant naga (snake) to mix the Ocean of Milk (river) to produce amrita, the elixir of immortality.  Judging from the river this mixture is a mossy green color of some viscosity.IMG_3540  IMG_3537 IMG_1371

Our guide told us the number 54 was significant as it was once the number of provinces that Cambodia ruled which included most of present day Thailand, some of Myanmar and Laos. Not sure if this is fact or not, I'm not CNN and don't check all my references, except for those that I make up. 

IMG_1376Me with the gate in the background, any likeness is purely coincidental.

Bayon, which looks like a huge pile of rock from a distance is located at the geographic center of Angkor Thom and because of it's eastern exposure is best photographed in the morning. IMG_1381As you get closer the pile of rubble begins to resolve and you start to have the impression you're being watched. This may have something to do with the 216 gigantic faces peering at you from all angles and heights from just about anywhere you stand.  Many think these faces are modeled after King Jayavarman VII who built the temple around 1190 AD.  Others believe the faces represent Lokeshvara, a Buddhist deity, projecting benevolence outward to the 4 compass points.  This was one of my favorite temples, I liked the faces and proceeded to take many photos, see below.

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If you can get over the gigantic faces, there are many smaller carvings throughout the complex that tell stories of events that happened to the inhabitants hundreds of years ago.  Of course I couldn’t get over the faces, so I’ll have to see the smaller carvings on a future visit.

We spent the morning walking through this temple and the area nearby guided by these signs.IMG_3594

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It’s not difficult imaging this place being swallowed by the jungle and there are swarms of workers fending off the leaves and vegetation that continually threatens to engulf everything and return it to nature.

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The people who built these places loved their stairs.  We certainly got a work out with all the ups and downs.  If you visit, bring comfortable shoes for walking.

 

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This one reminded me of Chit Zen Itza, that’s me climbing to the top to see what I can see.  That’s Nancy, the wise, taking my picture. 

The quote of the day today went to Nancy who, pulling out a reference to the Lord of the Rings that I didn’t even know she had in her said “I feel like we should have to speak elven to pass through these gates” 

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This is me speaking the little elfish I’m familiar with “Annon Edhellen edro hi ammen. Fennas Nogothrim lasto beth lammen.” Roughly translated, “Gate of the Elves open now for me.  Doorway of the Dwarf-folk, listen now to the word of my tongue.”

From here we finished our walk through the Terrace of Elephants IMG_1436

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This is where we had arranged to meet Dee with his tuktuk and there were a bunch of stalls selling stuff that you had to wander by on the way out.  Women were there selling their wares ranging from books, silk scarves, table cloths, and T-shirts.  We only had an outdated Lonely Planet from 2005 so decided to buy the 2009 edition for 8 bucks.  Nancy bore the brunt of the sales force, managing to escape with only about a dozen scarves, t-shirts and other knick-knacks and we hurried through to a place that looked good for lunch.

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This is Nic (seated) and her friend? Sales associate?  She’s 10 and was selling assorted stuff.  She came and chatted us up after we had ordered and left as soon as the food came, then returned when we were done.  She spoke English well and asked what state we were from.  She said “if I can name your state and country capitol, and president, you buy.” and proceeded to tell us the capitols of Maine and Massachusetts, capitol of the country is Washington DC, that Obama was President and we had 300 million people living in the U.S.  We asked her if she knew all the Capitols of other countries and she said, “do you know the capitol of Madagascar?” I said no and she told me, “Antananarivo”, then she semi-joking said “you buy.”  Nancy ended up buying some post cards partly because Nancy had asked Nic if she had any before we ordered our meal and Nic was smart enough to go get some while we ate, and partly because they were interesting, polite and talkative kids. Plus I learned the capitol of Madagascar.

We found Dee and headed off on our next adventure but that’s another post.

Sunday, January 09, 2011

Cambodia Potty Photo

Over the public toilet at a temple.IMG_4312

No smoking.

No sitting on the toilet seat and squatting because you do not know how to use a Western toilet.

No washing your feet with the bidet hose.

No showering with the bidet hose.

Saturday, January 08, 2011

Logistics

Have you seen the UPS we love Logistics commercial? Well the song is stuck in my head so I figured I would do a Cambodia Logistics blog post. Not ready with pictures and stories of our trip yet. Ok so not really logistics just the beginning of the trip....

We hired a private car to take us to the airport. It was great. It was a Lexus.  He was on time. Smoke free car. Car was warmed nicely (it was 5AM and a wee bit chilly). He spoke decent English. Dropped us in the right spot at the right terminal. 30 minutes with little traffic. 
Checked in at China Air no problems. 1 backpack bag each. Mike's almost empty mine half full. Left room for trinkets we planned to buy.

We waited for 2 hours at the airport because it does not take an hour to get there at 5AM on a Sat.

Starbucks hot coco is bitter and expensive. (But still good when it's the only thing open)

Mike has a cold, everyone on the plane is sick. The germs are floating over our heads and being breathed in by me. I am sick by the end of the flight. Airborne is a proprietary combination of 17 vitamins, minerals and herbs that help prevent colds while traveling. HIGHLY recommend it. Knocked the cold right out of me.

Three hour,  six minute flight.  We land.

We arrive at Visa window. Hand over 20 US dollars each, the one with the large presidents head on it. Other tourists used older bills and they would not accept it as payment. Also surrendered a passport size picture. 10 men are standing there waiting to collect the application, money, and picture. They look at it and hand it to one of the additional 10 men who enter the info into a computer. They hand it to one of the additional 10 men to stick the Visa in it. They hand it to one of the 3 people distributing them back to us. They held up the passport and you had to recognize yours. They did not call out the name nor the country of passport. Luckily we were one of the first people to the window so we could see ours. 15 minutes later we had our Visa and headed to the Passport Control Window. Tourists at the window being told they need to go back and get in the other line to get a visa.  Why they could not process it all at once is still amazing to me?

Passport took a digital picture of us, stamped the page, and we were on our way.

Bags were there when we got to the carousel.

Now to the bus station to head to Siem Reap.

I had no idea about anything as I did not do my pre-reading about Cambodia. I did read about the history on the flight.

We were pleasantly accosted by a taxi ticket pusher and jumped in his tuk tuk for $7.00 to the city. IMG_3515

We had an official looking ticket that said $7.00. Mike said we wanted to go to the Mekong Express bus terminal as he had read that was the best. Half way into town the driver says no Paramount the best. He drops us of in what looks like a dingy alley that doesn't look big enough to get a bus down it. Really this is it. A lady sitting on a rickety chairs sells us 2 tickets for $10 each. Hope we get there.

Dude yells out Siem Reap, we get on the bus. IMG_3503

1.5 lane road,  mostly paved, 1 hour of bumps, 1.5 hours of small little communities, 1 for pit stop, 2.5 hours of beautiful rice fields, palm trees, happy smiling people. IMG_3504 IMG_3506 IMG_3508

We arrive in the dark in a back alley with no lights (is this the same place we left?) but loads of tuk tuk drivers. We jump in one, we try 3 and he drops us of at a backpackers. $18 a night for 5 nights. Supposedly hot water and air conditioning. Did not really need the AC but would have liked the hot water and a shower that drained. We stayed anyways. OK so Day 2 we discover hot water happens at night.

Dee was our Tuk Tuk driver to the hotel and he has plans to stick to us like glue until we agree to let him drive us around during our stay in Siem Reap.  We arrange with Dee to be our driver for the week. We tell him how long we plan to stay, we don't discuss the price. We all know what it should cost.

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To bed.....

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Cambodia

Online check in (check)
Boarding passes printed (check)
Taxi ordered (check)
Luggage tags printed in Chinese and English(check)
Backpacks found (check)
Walking sticks (check)
Camera batteries charged (check)
Cameras emptied of old photos (check)
Toiletries, tissues and travel drugs (check)
Water purifying tablets (check)
Snacks and water bottle (check)
Books (check)
220-110 adapters (check)

Consulted the Tavel Advisory Site for Cambodia
Consulted the CDC site for Cambodia
1 US = 4,050 KHR - Cambodian Riels

Still need to pack clothes and find an ATM that dispenses new US dollars with the large portrait heads of the president.

2 weeks, ahhhhhhhhhh

No hotel/hostel/motel/condo/tent/resort booked
No transportation inside country booked
No plans
No expectations


CANNOT WAIT!